Quick Shade Screen. Lamp Shades Floor Lamps. Pergola Sun Shades

Quick Shade Screen

quick shade screen

    shade screen
  • A specially fabricated screen of sheet material with small narrow louvers formed in place to intercept solar radiation striking a window; the louvers are so small that only extremely small insects can pass through. Also called sun screen. Also, an awning with fixed louvers of metal or wood.

  • A screen affixed to the exterior of a window or other glazed opening, designed to reduce the solar radiation reaching the glazing.

  • any area of the body that is highly sensitive to pain (as the flesh underneath the skin or a fingernail or toenail)

  • promptly: with little or no delay; "the rescue squad arrived promptly"; "come here, quick!"

  • accomplished rapidly and without delay; "was quick to make friends"; "his quick reaction prevented an accident"; "hoped for a speedy resolution of the problem"; "a speedy recovery"; "he has a right to a speedy trial"

  • At a fast rate; quickly



Rob Jan wearing his (nearly finished!) version of a Firefly/Serenity Browncoat at the October 2nd, 2005, High Noon screening of Serenity at Chadstone, New Melbourne, Australia.

G'day folks,

As a veteran costumer (or is that 'vintage'?) I have to chuckle feelingly....there's so much fun you can have with the whole browncoat idea.

It's cool that costumers seem to be genuinely having a ball with the 'Independent' concept. Take a mix of period Wild West/American Civil War/Asiatic and Eastern styles and stir well with a hi-tech brush and you end up with all kinds of permutations and combos. Everything from Kaylee's Chinese jackets to Mal's space braces, Jayne's 'special' hat, and the Reaver rotters Madder Max cannibal chic...brilliant! And lot's more stuff in the new film to play with; notice that the Alliance squaddies no longer wear cast-off armour from the woeful Starship Troopers?

Anyway, I'm sure the Brownies would have a tremendous range of gear, being what seems to be a classic thrown together, under resourced, underdog military. There's also the effect that constant hard campaigning has on clothing....as dyes are weathered, field expedients are adopted to cope with local climatic conditions and tactical considerations.

I'm of the opinion (only applicable to myself, which is, after all, whom I'm costuming for) that the only thing that matters in making a Browncoat is that it be 'brown', which when you consider how many shades of brown there are allows quite a bit of room for interpretation.

Anyway, I thought I'd bash together a quick Browncoat to wear to a small gathering of fans who went to see Serenity at High Noon at Chadstone Hoyts on the opening weekend. There's dozens of commercially available patterns, of course, not to mention all the resources that the various re-enactment/ period costume groups provide on-line or in their assorted publications. There are, additionally, a large number of reproduction garment cutting books with all manner of adaptable historical patterns in them.

Being in a hurry I just grabbed Simplicity Costume Pattern 4916, which has a series of variations on long coats with extra 'capelets' covering the shoulders. I might alternatively have chosen a Butterick Pony Express pattern...for an even more authentic looking Western coat. 4916 seems to have been created with a Van Helsing like vampire hunter in mind, but the basic black look isn't welded on. I chose camel coloured sherpa backed suede, which only cost me six bucks a metre 'cos it was on sale, and has a rough looking animal hide appearance to it; call it futuristic buckskin!

The trick to making it look more than 'just a western duster' are the anachronistic trimmings. Odd buckles to use as closures for the front, Serenity banner patches on the upper arms, and in my case, some little Zero-G badges for the lapel points. I didn't worry about high-trousers or a period shirt (although I've got 'em) but did wear a belt with an elaborate Chinese dragon belt buckle. The belt was leather, which I'd hammered a variety of different diameter metal rings into (mostly discarded chainmail links) to emboss it in a dragon scale pattern and then buffed up with leather dyes so it resembles some kind of exotic animal hide. Long black boots (what costumer doesn't have a pair?) and an Akubra style hat finished the rig. Actually, I deliberately chose one of those 'srcunchable' hats with the mesh bowl and canvas brim, partly 'cos I need a new hiking hat (waste not, want not!), partly because I liked the Western-but-not look of it. I removed the
braided hatband and replaced it with one of my maille ones. Note the different spelling is just to calm down any other armoured anoraks out there....hey, so long as they're brown anoraks! Speaking of which, I'm much more at home with a hammer and anvil than with a needle and thread, but, shoot, a sewin' machine's a power tool, right?

So, it took a couple of days to get the coat more or less together (got it wearable without some of the trimming, good enough for work on the Rim!) and a good time was had on the day, even if it was a bit warm to wear...not the oddest thing I've ever worn in public by a long stretch! (Anything that ways less than 40 kilos, isn't made of steel, plastic, rubber or boiled leather is a bit of a luxury!)

The folks I went to the screening with also made a fine effort to wear brown of one sort or another, one lass did her hair in Zoe curls, and my partner made herself a pair of brown cullotes and a real purdy river-boat style patterned gambler's vest. The others all thought to wear Denim and accessorised in Brown.

The coat is ankle length, 'cos I wanted it that way, and, like most of long coats is kind of amusing to wear, especially when you sit down, ;cos the best way is to flip the chair around so the back panels swing out around the seat....just like in the films. Doesn't work in the cinema seats though!

I never wear a costume wi

Danae Tutorial :)

Danae Tutorial :)

okies.. VERY VERY BRIEF run through on what I did in PS to get the Danae Tribute picture :) I don't save my original PS files any more as I never go back and play with the layers at a later date.

Firstly… and the MOST important… do as much as you can in SL FIRST!
1. I uploaded an original picture of Danae into SL and textured a prim to lay on. Then textured a cylinder and zoomed the camera into it so I would get a curved back wall behind her. Zoom into your model and get her positioned on the screen how you want the finished picture.. I knew I wanted her feet going off into the bottom corner, and I wanted to see her face from under her hair, not a top view like the original. THEN Play around with the texture alignments and repeats until you get it right behind her… the curves, or straight lines will make a difference, you don't want it to look like the model has horns or something from the texture behind. (this is the same for trees etc in land shots)
2. Move any prims around that need it.. on this I 'edit' individual prims on her hair to move some to expose the nipple and some at the back were sticking up from her head being tilted, so they had to go.
3. Keeping the camera in the same position snap a few shots with different environmental settings.. some of the windlight settings are great when merged as a layer. I tend to take up to 20.
4. For this 'quick' tutorial there is just two raw shots from SL used.. With the dark highlighted version on top of the First blend it with 'LIGHTEN' (pic 2)
5. merge down
6. I tend to print out a copy so I do Image - Size and make it 300dpi but just 4 inches high. But resize it to what ever works for you.
7. The original is drawn, smooth and blended so go to FILTER - STYLIZE - ANISOTROPIC
8. Then grab your 'SMUDGE' tool and gently push her butt out and rounded, and her hair, I also go along all edges with a very small brush size to gently smooth the pixels. Then Switch to CLONE tool and redraw in some hair strands over the smudge area.. skin texture can also be cloned onto smudge skin if needed. For this picture we now draw in the panties…
9. Click 'take snapshot' before you start then with soft brush and 30% translucent eyedropper the lightest part of her skin to draw in the panties, then click the color to choose a few shades darker and go over … again choose darker to shade under and between butt cheeks… (pic 3)
10. with SMALL brush draw in outline of panties, and go around the edges of skin where limb cross on a new layer so the opacity can be taken down to a faint pencil mark. you can BLUR any lines that are too pronounced… color in eyelid from same color of shadow under eye… (pic4) TAKE SNAPSHOT..
11. Open original Danae and clone some of the gold dots on to the area next to her to blend the wall and floor and to get rid of the straight join line…DODGE BURN and SMUDGE then cut a small section of the 'material' from the original to add as a layer over her feet (or clone it in)… bring down opacity. (pic 5)
12. MERGE VISIBLE Take SNAPSHOT and make FOUR copies of the layer…
13. 1st layer FILTER - SKETCH - GRAPHIC PEN then blend as OVERLAY (pic 6)
14. 2nd layer BLEND MULTIPLE (pic 7)
15. 3rd layer opacity 76% (pic 8)
16. merge down or option shift 'merge layers' to make a new layer of combined layers… tweak till you like it. FILTER SHARPEN and add signature
17. Add layer of texture of crinkled paper … LOTS available out there or make your own :) do this at the end after you have smudged and cloned so you don't mix up the last texture. (pic 9)
18. play with opacity to turn the strength of crinkles down.. and add CURVES layer and HUES layer to even out the colors. AND YOU DONE!!!

quick shade screen

See also:

luxaflex awnings

semi circle window shade

booka shade movements

king canopy replacement parts

shade for window

internal shutters

deck awnings

designer blinds

wrought iron canopies


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